CopiPanas

MOUNT SLAMET

THE LONELY GIANT

by Handjono

This is my 2nd trip to Mount Slamet and this time I planned my hike more carefully especially on timing. Mid December is wet as everyday it rains already. Movement is slower on the slippery trek and we need more clothes. Also I chose the different descent route for the sake of getting more complete experience on the mighty Mount Slamet.

Jakarta – Purwokerto on the Sawunggalih non-air-con business class train was fine although a little bit warm when the train stopped. The seat is also non-reclining so almost every 2nd passenger lied on the train coach floor to get a better sleep during the 5 hours journey. Off course I did it too.

The train left Jatinegara station at 19:15, stopped 3 X at Cirebon, Prupuk and Bumiayu. Prupuk and Bumiayu are small towns and the stations were quiet. Many food sellers got on board the train to offer their merchandises and off course they woke us up. But I did not mind for I had a lot of sympathy over the poor villagers. Hopefully their kids could do better than the parents and would have to do it again.

We arrived in Purwokerto by 1:10 then were driven to Hotel Mulia at the town central by a good friend living in Purwokerto. Riding on his car along the quiet streets of Purwokerto was a good experience for we rarely see a medium size city in the late night. Purwokerto was lighted with enough lamps so we could see the old colonial buildings that were still preserved. Some people were sitting on some colonial buildings’ verandas, and we could not tell if they were real or not.

Hotel Mulia was a simple but artistic old building from the Dutch time of 19 century. The hotel was nice and clean, the sleep was good but the night was short because we had to be ready at 6:00. A superb breakfast of nasi gudeg in front of Hotel Mulia, then we were driven to Bambangan through the famous Baturraden resort and then on along the quiet mountain road beyond Baturraden amidst the pine woods that were not so dense anymore.

Bambangan was alive in the morning, we arrived 8:00 and immediately engaged Anwar the villager who knows the trek very well also the descent to Guci. Re-packing was quite cumbersome as usual and by 9:00 sharp we started our hike.

BAMBANGAN – POS 5

After the Bambangan Gate the trek directly challenged us with steep ascents although the first 1 hour was still farm vegetations. One hour later we gasped our breaths to the Pos 1 that offers a good shelter. The shelter was built some 2 years ago. It was already cold for the weather was cloudy and somewhat windy. A short nap of 15 minutes or so then we continued our hike slowly to Pos 2.

The forest has materialized although it was not as dense as I expected. My memory said 2 years ago the forest was quite dense and the cold shade of the trees chilled me a bit, but now the trees look to me less dense. After some 40 minutes of mildly steep ascent we arrived at Pos 2, a small square with some garbage and tall trees. Garbage is always a disappointing scene you see at every stop (Pos) but you have to hike with it.

A very short break then we continued to Pos 3 with a similar slope of ascent. The forest became thicker but still less than what I felt 2 years before. It was 11:45 and we stopped for lunch under the plastic sheet for it rained a shower. I was chilled and quickly grabbed my jacket from my rucksack.

Pos 3 to Pos 4 was quick, at least quicker than it had to be because we discussed many things while walking. You do not feel tired when having intensive discussion over anything.

Pos 4 was again a plot of square ground with many garbage at one corner. Under the mid day shower of 12:00 we stopped for lunch. Our mini fly sheet made a good shelter for the lunch and then the nasi gudeg lunch. Superbly tasty, supposedly healthy and returned our mentality. The hot tea drink we cooked with the paraffin stove concluded the wet lunch.
 
Then slowly we ascended again to Pos 5 along the nice and moderately steep trek. We wanted very much to see Pos 5 as we knew we would be able to take many minutes of nice stop in the Pos 5 shelter.

POS 5 – POS 7

It was 14:30 and cloudy with mist drops when we reached Pos 5. Getting to Pos 5 is a surprise for it is at the inner right side of the trek on a higher leveled ground it could not be seen from a distance. You see it when it is so close. Pos 5 was so inviting to spend the night for the shelter was quiet, we could have it for ourselves. We did not expect the 3 student hikers we met in Pos 2 would be able to make it to Pos 5 that evening. Inside the shelter there was a 1 meter high stage inside, where 10 hikers could sleep on it nicely. Some 20 more hikers could sleep on the floor. Off course if they bring a warm sleeping bag each.

We went down to the water stream down below. Exiting the shelter you take the 2 o’clock direction and after 2 – 3 minutes of steep descent, the water stream was there. The water certainly was ice cold and we filled in some bottles.

Three pm sharp when we left Pos 5 for Pos 7. The trek was a water way, it was narrow with soil walls left and right. The ascent was nice, and some 20 minutes afterwards some tall trees welcomed us. No sign but I believed it had to be Pos 6 for there was a leveled camp site enough for several tents.

Some more minutes of moderately steep ascent and by 15:45 we got to the much longed Pos 7 under the afternoon chilling shower. The porch of Pos 7 was narrower than Pos 5 the log benches over there were wetted by the shower. So we directly entered the shelter and greeted the student hikers who had set their tent inside.

The wide stage still allowed us some rest area and soon we cooked our meals and hot drinks. We changed our wet clothes with the dry ones and then had a quick dinner. The most enjoyable was the hot chocolate. No way we could set a camp fire for the woods were all wet. It rained so hard immediately after we arrived and it last until midnight or so.

Pos 7 was not freezing cold, thanks to the Bambangan villagers who maintained the shelter quite well. Unfortunately the warm carpet was stolen so the stage in the shelter building was now of bare wooden planks. Luckily someone had put straws and dry grasses for cushion and warmth. After early dinner at around 18:00 we slipped into our sleeping bags.

POS 7 – SUMMIT

It was 4:30 when we woke up and started to prepare ourselves for the summit attack. The preparation was longer as we had to carry all our stuffs. We would continue to Guci on the other side of Mount Slamet given weather permitting.

By 4:45 after breakfast of noodle and pudding we started the hike towards the summit. Easterly G Sindara nd G Sumbing extended their warm good morning with the early reddish light of the sun. The warm hello spurred our spirit to resume the hike amidst the dark and wet dawn.

 
Initially the steep trek was complimented with wet bushes, then gradually the bushes vanished and finally the sandy rock appeared. It was around 5:15 but the headlamps were not needed anymore. Very soon we ascended on the steep slope. It was somewhat damp if not wet, and we had to be careful with the loose stones and loose sands. Several places we stumbled knee down but after a while we got an adaptation and slowly continued the march.

The final ascent to the summit of Mount Slamet from Bambangan side is indeed steep and somewhat slippery. Looking back was scary because you would imagine you would roll over continuously until the vegetation limit. The only way to get over it was preparation far ahead (exercise), not too heavy a rucksack, self confidence and proper pace. Pace is important. Do not hurry for you could easily get your leg cramped. Once you get it, the rest of the hike would be a torture.

THE SUMMIT

After several rest stops finally the slope end was reached. The stops were not just for regaining our breaths but also for admiring the beauty of the twin sisters in the distance. Who else if not the famous G Sindara and G Sumbing. The sunrise was not perfect because of the clouds but their beauty was still intact amidst the bluish Kedu plateau. The green color of tobacco off course was not seen from the distance. The Kedu plateau is nationally famous as a tobacco country.

 
We got over the heaps of the rim and some meters forward, there were us, on the peak of Mount Slamet. The GPS said 3440m, the clock was 6:30 and the weather was clear although not very bright. G Sindara and G Sumbing were still visible but not as clear as a few hundred meters before. They looked somewhat lower than the point we stood, understandably because G Sindara is 3156m and G Sumbing is 3371 m.

I was so relieved for that was “revenge” for me. January 2009 I was at 3371m or 10 minutes from the peak when I had to return to Pos 7 for nausea and dizziness. Mount Slamet, here I come back ……….

The clear weather was not long. Gradually the cloud rolled over the summit and by 7:00 the cloud covered the summit and we hurried to start the descent to Guci through the caldera. From the 3440m peak we turned right north direction and descended to the sand sea through a rocky path near the end of the rim’s flat strip. The rocky descent was short but we had to be very careful not to twist our ankles walking over the loose stones.

Then the black sand sea with the vertical cliffs fencing it. Not so high as the G Sumbing sand sea cliffs but the mist and the wind dramatized the scene. Not really scary but somehow you would not want to stay a minute longer than you have to.

The sand sea was only a few hundred meters, than at its end gradually we walked through to the rocky ascent to the crater rim. The crater at the left part was some 50 meters deep and the fumarol was blown by the wind sometimes to our direction so we could smell the sulfur.

The trek was fine, no scary part and near the end of the rim strip we stopped by the marking made from a stick and stones. To the right was the quite steep descent from the summit to Guci.

SUMMIT – GUCI

The sand trek to the vegetation limit was good because it was damp and you could ski down without fear. The descent was not so steep and there was almost no sizeable stone. It was a nice 15 minutes descent and then the trek began to change with stony sand and we had to watch our steps. The stones were loose so we stumbled a few times and after a while I had to take some rest every now and then.

The vegetation limit was marked by a bright yellow plastic roof of a shelter. That was Guci trek Pos 5, quite clear from a distance but it was like hours before I got to it. The descent from the summit to Pos 5 was somewhat exhausting. We had to walk head down to watch our steps not to step on the slippery loose stones.

Breakfast and other things at Pos 5, then by 9:30 we resumed our descent to Guci. The trek was quite steep but fortunately it was not slippery. Thanks to the rotten and fresh leaves on the trek.

Pos 4 was near, by 10:00 we got to it. We did not rest too long and continued to Pos 3. The trek was less steep and again no slippery at all so we could race in the hope to reach Guci by mid day. Then along the convenient trek we subsequently got to Pos 3, Pos 2 and Pos 1. Pos 4 to Pos 3 was long, it was 45 minutes. Pos 3 to Pos 2 was shorter at 30 minutes and then Pos 1 was surprisingly only 30 minutes from Pos 2. At Pos 1 we took a long rest after a long race from Pos 4 along the convenient trek.

After Pos 1 the trek became quite leveled like no slope but some parts began to become slippery and then it changed to a stony trek with some intact asphalt paving at some sections. The trek had once to be a country or farm road for car. Pine woods appeared and the coconut cups were installed to collect the pine sap. The sap smelled very good.

The trek became wider and the porter took a left turn to a soil trek again to take a shorter cut. Then after 10 minutes or so appeared the paved road of Guci resort. Quickly we descended to the road and tried to hurry to get into the hot water spring pool. But our legs were heavy, heavier than the rucksacks on our backs.

In the hot water pool complex we did not care much about planning ahead for the Guci – Tegal leg of the homebound journey but quickly plunged ourselves into the pool together. It had to be some 60 C or so for initially it stung my skin. But after a while the warmth of the spring water gradually relaxed our muscles and then the hunger arises ……….

The other visitors looked at the wary hikers from Mount Slamet for our stuffs were different totally then theirs. Also our appearances, the dirt was still very visible on our clothes and our body members. One nice bapak asked me what we had done ……….

GUCI – TEGAL

Sate kelinci (hare satay) and hot teh poci (clay pot tea) concluded our nice and warmed afternoon in Guci, then we took an open pick-up to Tegal. The 50 km 1 hour ride was amidst the afternoon rain to the north direction through the quiet villages of Tuwel, Yomani, Lebaksiu, Slawi, Adiwerna and Banjaran. Slawi is a small town but quite well known nationally for being the hometown of the nationally loved Teh Botol (bottled tea brand). You see it everywhere, people drink chilled Teh Botol after their meals in any restaurant.

The rain stopped when we got to Tegal, then we tried our luck with the Argo Muria train from Semarang en route to Jakarta but there was only 1 seat left. So we decided to have sate kambing (mutton satay) and es buah (mixed fruit ice) nearby. The shop 200 m west of the railway station was popular with Tegalers and travelers. As like the other north coast towns of Jawa, the foods in Tegal are delicious and memorable. You want to come back for the sake of them alone.

Everyone we met in Tegal was very friendly, we were shown directions, advised the better buses to Jakarta and then directed to the long distance bus agent shop and the bus station. The becak ride was nice although the afternoon then evening shower came back. The streets of Tegal were not as busy as in the daylight.

The Tegal bus station was busy with to be passengers and the huge long distance buses in the standby row were to start the long journey of many hours to the west, to the east and to the south. West bound to Jakarta and Sumatra (as far as Banda Aceh), east bound as far as Surabaya and Bali, south bound to Purwokerto then Jogya. North of Tegal is directly the Java Sea.

The Dewi Sri bus still had some vacant rows, so we took 2 and prepared ourselves for the 8 hours or so journey to Jakarta. Our bus moved away slowly from the station and quickly we knew the aircon did not work perfectly but it was warmth was still bearable. Fortunately also no one smoked in the bus. Alham and me slowly we got into our sleeps but every now and then we were woken up by the opposite bright car lights, stops and starts, loud sound of the bus gears change and many things else. Jakarta was still far away but the Dewi Sri bus gave us a good feeling as the tickets were cheap and it ran slowly.

COPIPANAS TEAM: Alham, Handjono

GUIDE: Anwar

—ooOoo—

MOUNT DEMPO

(3159 m)

THE FOREST SYMPHONY

by

Handjono

 

After the epic hike, my relationship with Mount Dempo is love and hate. The summit serenity and beauty are the ones I love from Mount Dempo. Then the black monkeys symphony and the playful squirrel are the exciting experiences I do not get in Java. Actually I also love the difficult ascent for it gave me the feeling of strength. Then what I hate? The terrible and torturing descent.

Palembang – Pagaralam (300 km, 7 hours)

Palembang was smoggy when we flew over it. The smog smell squeezes our lungs as we left the airport towards the city center. By 17:30 we crossed the famous Ampera bridge over the Musi river towards Kertapati sub-urban direction south west to Pagaralam. The city was so congested you thought you were in Jakarta.

The traffic was slow along the flat terrain and well paved highway. Dinner was ok in Cambai Jaya Padang Restaurant near Prabumulih town, the oil district of South Sumatra. Finished at 20:30 then on we rode to Pagaralam through the towns of Muaraenim and Lahat. The road was less congested after Prabumulih as many turned left towards Lampung. Muaraenim at 10:30 was quiet, so was Lahat at midnight. Some young motorists roared along the warm yellow lighted city streets.

After Lahat gradually the road changed to become zig-zag and ascending.  Villages are scarce and the midnight darkness engulfed the dim lights from one or two other vehicles. Closer to Pagaralam the road became more and more snaky then appeared a stocky built steel bridge over a deep gorge. The script on the cliff says “Selamat Datang Di Pagaralam Kota Perjuangan”.

Pagaralam – Villa Besemah (15 km, ½ hours)

From the town center we turned left passing the market. Wide road, bright lighting and then steeply ascending route brought us to the state tea factory complex. A little more uphill along the meandering narrow road, then we arrived at Villa Besemah at 1:30 morning. Short conversations then the 4 wary hikers fell asleep in the warm large room.

Villa Besemah – Pintu Rimba

Breakfast was long and continued with waiting for the truck that would bring us to Kampung-4 the vehicle ride end. Some 30’ ride, then we stopped at the last warung and re-packed our stuffs. By 9:00 we started the hike towards the Pintu Rimba.

Pintu Rimba (1825 m) – Shelter 1 (2170 m)

The morning of 30/9/2011 was cloudy and the famous Mount Dempo view was not seen from the tea estate road. The sound of the symphony from the forest was quite clear and became stronger when we walked slowly towards the Pintu Rimba. The turn to the Pintu Rimba from the tea road was not obvious. It was just an entry to tea bushes rows like the others.

After 10 minutes walk along the tea bushes the Pintu Rimba appeared like a real door for behind it the thickness of the forest was quite obvious. Among the writings one says “Do not continue hiking if you are having menstruation”.

Very soon the trek became narrow and steep. Amidst the dry season the wet soil was not totally wet but nowhere dry. A little slippery, soon the trek offered the “model training place” because it was like a deep dry sewer only enough for 1 foot. Afterwards some short leveled strip of 2 – 3 meters and then steep ascent again. There were several those “model training place” but they were ok.

The symphony of the monkeys accompanied our journey, then gradually the trek became more difficult with vertical ascents of 1 meter sometimes more. We had to hold on roots and sometimes grasses to lift ourselves up. Niches are useful for intermediate stepping spots, but sometimes there were none. Good sole grips are very useful as well as arms strength. We started to think about the descent.

At 12:00 o’clock after 3 hours of hike appeared the Shelter 1 amidst the tall trees. Some 50 meters to the right, there was it, the black monkeys headquarter. The sounds of the black monkeys were loud. Different pitches, melodies and strength, all together they made up the forest symphony that we interpreted as a welcome hymn for us.

To the same direction is a fresh water spring but the drips are small so you would need many minutes to fill in a 600 ml bottle.

Shelter 1 (2170 m) – Shelter 2 (2640 m)

Very soon after Shelter 1 the trees became denser and the cold crept under our wet nylon shirts. You do not want to wear cotton shirt when hiking on the mountain because it loves your sweat and wants to keep it forever. Nylon, polyester and their cousins let go sweat.

The trek became really tough with the vertical ascents. Like climbing deteriorated ladders with slippery steps. You have to test a sticking root before you hold on it, for some are not strong enough. There was one vertical ascent of 5 meters with slippery steps you would not make it without courage and focus. They call it “The Cupboard Wall”.

Two hours already passed and the black monkey symphony was not heard anymore but the torturing trek seemed like endless. Shortly after the Cupboard Wall we spotted a sign on a large diameter tree “Shelter 2” but our happiness soon vanished when we read the complete script that says “1 Jam Menuju Shelter 2” with an arrow directing us towards the west. It meant “1 Hour To Shelter 2”.

A 1 – 2 minutes break then we continued our hike along the routines of steep straight hike, vertical ascent. There was the advantage of a person with flexible body. Legs were often lifted straight over hip level. Strong arm and hand grip were also important to keep yourself standing up not to make yourself belly up or back up. If you were an ex ballet dancer or acrobat, definitely you would enjoy the trek more than I did.

The strenuous trek was endless but then around 15:00 appeared the Shelter 2. The plain was actually small, a little more than half of badminton field. Some 20 meters away to the right or north direction there was a water stream where you could fill up your half empty bottles. The flow was strong enough you could hear it from the Shelter 2 main.

There we took a long rest to have our late lunch. The fog that has been lingering above the forest since the morning after wetted the soil and everything on it. The cold air of the height made me wearing my sweater. I still saved my warmer trousers for the late afternoon chill, so by 16:00 we resumed our hike towards the summit. It was supposed to be 2 more hours.

Shelter 2 (2610 m) – Dempo Peak (3070 m)

For some moments the sun shone over the trees and I really expected a warmer afternoon. But it did not last long and the fog soon came back like wanting to accompany us to the summit. The forest was still quite dense, so the cold was really hugging our bodies.

We walked faster to warm ourselves when the sky was already darker, and a short break to return our breaths was enough to chill us. Then the trees became sparser and shorter and the area was more open. The soil we stepped on changed to rock and some places were wet with water perhaps seeping from beneath. The preserved forest really keeps the water under the ground. No wonder water was available at Shelters 1 and 2.

By 18:30 appeared the “Cadas” (Rock) sign board on a tall tree and shortly afterwards we took a long break to sip hot drinks. Also waited for the other team members who were left behind a little while. Then by 19:30 we resumed our hike to be surprised 15 minutes later for the Dempo Peak campsite  was actually very close from the point we rested.

The fog slowly went away after the strong wind swept. But gradually the wind became storm and we had to struggle to erect the tents. The larger tent particularly was very difficult and 4 of us worked together erecting it. Pinned down to earth, then there you went. The ones with less cold tolerance quickly slipped into it and then into the sleeping bags. Some were still outside amidst the stormy wind and even cooked dinner. The warmed rice and canned fish were real delicious and returned our energy. Not a strange story, but you know it that on a volcano summit under whatever weather, whatever we have for dinner it always tastes delicious.

The crescent moon accompanied the wary hikers. She waved her hand from the distance and ensured us the sky would stay dry until the day after. Thanks mother nature. Then the hot ginger closed the unforgettable evening and one by one the hikers ceded into the tents.

Dempo Peak (3070 m) – Merapi Peak (3150 m)

The night on the Dempo peak actually was not very quite for the storm hit our tent and made the noise. I envied them who were not disturbed and snored. I changed position 180° and then slowly participated in the snoring party.

The sky was already bright at 6:00 o’clock when we got up. We were late because we said we would be ready for Merapi Peak by 5:00 but we did not. The steep ascents along the trek, the storm and the serenity of the Dempo Peak really deceived us from early bird wake up. After a quick light breakfast of biscuits and coffee we descended to the Plataran Valley.

The Plataran Valley (plataran = front yard) welcomed us with the chilly wind sweeping from the east. The descent was around 15 minutes crossing a short trek of steep ground with many exposed roots of tall bushes.

The valley is supposed to be better for a night camping for it is actually vast with many bushes, some short trees, water spring and an open place for ceremony. A red-and-white flag, our Indonesia national flag was waving handsomely on the far west of the valley yard, swept by the easterly wind. Overall the Plataran Valley must be good for hundreds of tents if not thousands.

Crossing the Plataran was quick, then 5 minutes later we ascended to the steep rocks of Merapi Peak. I took a zig-zag approach to save my breath and 20 minutes later we found ourselves over there on the Merapi Peak of G Dempo.

Quickly we crossed the 10 meters wide rim and peeked over to the Merapi crater down below. Must be around 150 meters from the rim as it looked deep. The water was greenish with vague smokes from its perimeters. The porters said the color changes, sometimes grayish sometimes brownish. I am glad when they said greenish is good sign.

As the sun was getting higher, the wind also blew stronger and luckily the fog was away. To the southeast is the Bukitbarisan mountain range and to the west supposedly the Indian Ocean shore but it was blocked by low land clouds.  Off course we enjoyed the closer southeast view, the Plataran Valley with the bushes and the RI flag at the far west end where the hikers usually camp and celebrate RI Independence Day.

By 8:00 we descended to Plataran Valley and then ascended back to the campsite for real breakfast and re-packing. While breakfast was warm and nice, consisting of nasi-goreng, noodle and bakso, re-packing as usual was not very interesting. Sad to leave the summit serenity. Then by 10:00 sharp we saluted the summit guards and then marched down to the Pintu Rimba.

Dempo Summit – Village

As we thought, the descent was not easy. In fact it was a lot more difficult than the ascent, as we had to watch for everything. Our steps, our heads (not to hit low horizontal branches), gorges, lichen, water puddle, slippery shale soil, weak roots, tall grasses (you would think they are good to step on then you found yourself stumbled). Then measure our legs length if they could reach the lower part of the vertical descent.

Arriving at Shelter 2 by around 12:00 was already a relief but the exhaustion started to slowly attack us. Short break only, poured our water from the summit to the ground and replaced it with Shelter 2 water. The summit water was sulfuric, Shelter 2 water was really fresh and nice. Then we marched on without lunch towards Shelter 1. There the most difficult part of the descent on Mount Dempo. The true vertical descents for them with long legs were difficult but not severe. Shorter legs, if complimented with weak shoulder and inflexible limbs, really made it tough. No way we could remember where were the locations of the foot steps. Therefore we frequently had to guess and sometimes slipped then depend on our arms and shoulders strengths.

The endless vertical drops, when you take a break and look far ahead, they make you nervous if not desperate. Really-really steep, much steeper than any forest trek I did before. Meanwhile the sweat from our bodies wetted our shirts and our heads like we walked under the rain.

It was 15:00 when we got to Shelter 1. An ½ hours break of light lunch, together with some students from Palembang who then returned to the base-camp for some reasons. The descent was not quicker than the ascent particularly for this leg of the trek. Three hours up and the same down. Now you imagine how tough it was.

From Shelter 1 the trek was somewhat easier with a lot less vertical drops but the steep and slippery curves plus fallen tree trunks also exhausted the wary Jakarta hikers. However, after the bone breaking vertical drops along Shelter 2 – Shelter 1 leg, the Shelter 1 – Pintu Rimba leg was like a play ground. Even the narrow water-line that easily could make you stumble looked ok.

By 17:00 Pintu Rimba appeared suddenly and then the open area of the mixed bushes of tea and other flora. The 15 minutes walk from Pintu Rimba to the tea estate road seemed endless for we longed the warm and nice seats in the car that would take us to Kampung 4 warung then Villa Besemah. We were so happy when spotting pak Anton, the driver and his car were ready over there waiting for us.

The last sunray of the bright dusk slowly ceded in the far west behind Mount Dempo. The summit gradually became a silhouette, darker and then unseen anymore. But the symphony of the black-monkeys was still loud from where we sat, they said good-bye and sent you warm regards.

 
G Dempo Team:
 1) Nungky
 2) Tatty
 3) Sandra
 4) Handjono

Porters:
1) Budi
2) Holdi

 

 

 

—ooOoo—